Thursday, March 19, 2009

Some more pictures from the wedding















My host mother and sister, Kalthoum and Lamyan















My mother and me. Yeah, I know, I am wearing make-up. My sister insists on flipping my hair just like in this picture. I borrowed her make-up and put more and more on as she ordered. I borrowed a jacket and shawl as well which I am wearing in the next picture.















Here I am back at home. My mom has a lot of trouble figuring out my camera, but this one came out pretty ok. I am standing in the corner of the room where she prays (she picked this area as the backdrop for the picture because it always looks nice). By the time this picture was taken, it was pushing 2 am and I was so ready to curl up in my warm bed. Did I mention I have a queen-sized bed here with a great comforter? It really beats my squeaky bunked single in Noah, I have to say, though I really miss Anna's company and late-night rambling chats.

The Wedding this week

This week has been another exhausting one (surprise, surprise) and tomorrow is Independence day so we have no class. What a blessing. I am coming down with a touch of something and have definitely not slept enough this week between going out bowling with my cousin on Saturday until 2 am, the pre-wedding party on Sunday night, wedding ceremony and party on Tuesday night, and staying up late to write a paper for class last night.

The wedding was wonderful. The bride is a friend of my mother's from about 30 years back at Tunis Air. Both the party on Sunday and the ceremony (which was really mostly a party) on Tuesday were chock-a-block full of music. Just a side bar, I have recently started using weird phrases like "chock-a-block" for no apparent reason besides that I am struggling to speak and write in English correctly these days). The group on Tuesday night was an all women's ma'luf ensemble led by the 'ud player. They were having such a good time playing and played beautifully together: keyboard player (with micro-tones of course, violinist, kanuun, 'ud, two drums, darbuka, and various singers. I am still learning how to attach video to this blog, so I will post a video when I figure it out...

Our role at the wedding was strictly to sit and gorge ourselves on hoarderves, fruit juices, and tiny tasty sweets. Candied almonds are a wedding and baby shower specialty here. As soon as I'd told my mom I was too full, she'd find sometime else to put on my plate and insist "qoul, qoul!" (eat it! eat it!). We visited with the bride's nuclear famility, particularly her mother, and watched the bride and her new husband sit in the spotlight on their silver sofa. I wont try to describe it; I'll just put in a few pictures. My mom told me that before the wedding, the bride's mother covers her daughter in warm / hot sugar with lemon used to remove all of the hair on her body like a hot wax (besides on her head). Traditionally, brides are kept indoors for a month at least and fed only sweet and fatty foods to keep them as plump and pale as possible (this is attractive). The ceremony of signing the vows is short and not celebrated in the same fassion as in the US. It's treated more as business. As soon as that's done, some religious man reads a sura from the Qur'an. Everyone joined in towards the end and recited some sort of prayer of good wishes. What followed? Of course, more music, dancing, and eatting.

Here are some photos of the wedding:















The bride and groom seated on their silver couch. They were on display int he spotlight in the front of the reception hall for almost the entire evening (they took a short dancing break). Most guests make a short visit some time during the evening, typically just before they leave, to give the couple their best wishes.















Just a sampling of some of our tasty treats. Lots of sugar, almonds, and pistachio. Wonderful baklava as well.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Some Weekend Musics

This weekend was full of musical adventures.

Friday I went to hear "Balti," a famous Tunisian hip hop artist here in Tunis. He gave a concert that was attended by a really interesting group of people: lots of young boys (some under ten!) and teenagers as well as middle-aged men and the fathers and mothers of the younger boys. The show was complete with an opening act put on by a Tunisian break-dancing group, "Upper underground," and extensive sampling from some pretty old-school American hip hop and rap as well as some more recent stuff. The place got pretty crazy; full of smoke and the entire audience teetering (and rocking out) standing on the backs of their seats and on the arm rests. One man just behind me and my friends caught Balti's hat and lost his balance pulling four of five men down onto the ground with him. A good time, but I'm not sure I'd do it again...

Saturday I have my second Ma'luf lesson and was invited to join an "orchestra" rehearsal just as I was leaving. I obliged and joined 7 or 8 little kids who were seated in violin I and II sections in white lawn-chairs in the interior cour yard of the conservatory here in Sidi Bou Said. What did me play? An arrangement of "Angeline the Baker," the American fiddle tune (Appalachian I believe) for two violin sections and double base. Utterly bizarre. My Darbuka teacher walked pas as we were playing and joined in as well, bringing the strange factor up even further. It was great just to play with people no matter what we were doing; I hadn't realized the extent to which I was desperately missing that. I talked to the director afterwards and he invited me to return next weekend at 4:00—I'll be there. When prompted about "Angeline the Baker," he told me he did a "project on Arab and Appalachian music" what ever the heck that means! And traveled around the US giving some performances including one at the Kennedy center (if I understood his broken English correctly). This has got to be looked into; really cool stuff!

Sunday morning and early afternoon was spent perusing through the used clothes at the weekly souk in La Marsa with Colleen and Gabi and a good chat on the beach at La Cornice. The weather is getting to be fabulous. In the evening I went with my mom to one of the wedding parties for one of her colleagues 30 years ago with Tunis Air. I got to meet some of her friends, but basically sat there and just got to people watch. The music was great as well; a lot of Ma'luf-style styuff but with synthesized keyboard riffs meant to sound like kanuun and 'ud and drum-pad synthesized drum kit and darbuka right along side a violin and ney with pick-ups and a live darbuka. Strange and fasinating. We return tonight at 7:00 for another part of the wedding. I'm not totally sure what's going on all the time but it's nice just to people-watch.

That's all for now.

Just a heads-up, I will be on a Northern Excursion starting this coming monday (23rd) morning and returning on the evening of Sunday the 29th. Sweet! I am ready to mix up the routine a bit.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

An Assignment for class...

This was the first assignment for my field seminar course, to type up one of our journal entries.

Please feel free to read it. Sorry for references you might not get to Tunisian cinema...

I didn’t set my alarm last night because I wanted to take advantage of the holiday and grab a little extra sleep when I had the chance. I woke up to music, birds, dogs barking, roosters, and the sound of my neighbor washing his car; much of this has become standard fare for a weekend morning in La Marsa. The music was something new though and when I hurried to unlatch the window and shutters, I was greeted by a burst of fresh air and sunlight. It was already getting hot outside. I instinctively grabbed for my audio recorder that I keep on my nightstand right next to the window, turned it on, and placed it carefully on the windowsill. I wanted to capture the soundscape all around me; the pre-recorded Tunisian music blasting from someone’s house up the street near the park, my neighbor washing his car, the blackbirds singing to each other and to the morning in the trees next to our car port and the kids at the end of the street that play soccer in the road between the pot holes that fill with fresh murky water and trash by every evening. I wanted to “take it all in.” Outside, my nephew, Skander, and two other neighbor’s kids who are half French, one quarter Italian, and one quarter Tunisian scuttled around in circles on their bikes with training wheels squealing as they plowed straight through the potholes, racing each other. I stood there soaking up the sun for ten minutes or so, staring at the women in the park hanging their laundry up to dry amongst the trash, chickens, and sheep and my neighbor washing his red car, while lost in my own thoughts.

It took me those ten minutes, and my other neighbor coming out of her house to check on the newborn puppies sheltered under an overhang in the front corner of her house for me to realize what I was doing. I could have waved to her and greeter her successfully, I could have, but I didn’t. All of a sudden I shut one of the shudders and reached to turn off my recorder. I peeked through the chinks of the shudders to try to establish whether or not I have been discovered. All of a sudden I was overcome by a sense of guilt, self-consciousness, completely ashamed of my fascination in the everyday goings on in other people’s lives. I had caught myself in the act of peeking, peeping; I was the voyeur. I was just standing there capturing images, if even in my head, (note the violence inherent to all verbs associated with photography) and documenting the every sound of the morning with my tiny machine. Was it mine for the taking in the first place? I those few moments I questioned my role here, my “right” to be here in a Tunisian’s home, and on a greater scale, the place of anthropology and the ethnographer. The example of this morning might seem extreme, people watching is a popular hobby of mine back home in the states, but somehow being here I don’t feel justified in the same way. Oh course, students who study anthropology are curious people, they are immensely interested in the complexity of the ways people live and think, but does this give them the right be voyeurs? The lines between “participation” and “disturbance,” “observation” and “voyeurism” are elusive and, for me, pose a question not only of “scientific method,” but also of my own sense of morality and ethics.

This morning’s experience reminded me also of my experiences recently on public bus 52 that I take every morning from La Marsa to the SIT office in Sidi Bou Said. Over the past week or so I have started wearing my sunglasses more regularly to the bus stop and all the while on the bus. Yes, the weather is getting warmed and the sun is brighter, but the main reason I’ve started wearing them is that men seem to have a harder time following my eyes and subsequently (I think, at least) notice and hassle me less. The sunglasses not only help to manage looks from others, but, admittedly, allow me to watch other people without necessarily their knowing. With the mediation of my sunglasses I feel safer observing differences between how men and women of different ages behave in the small space of the bus, I look over the shoulders of students punching numbers into the calculators on their cell phones and studying for math exams. I know that the lenses I am wearing are multi-purpose for me, but I wear them all the same. I let myself be a voyeur because, I think, at this point at least, I am still too shy to be a true “participant observer.” Also, I have found that though participatory experiences are almost always rewarding experiences, observation from a distanced seems always to be a devilishly tempting, safe, guarded possibility. This, I believe is the draw to the voyeur.

I can’t help but think also of Halfouine, Summer in La Goulette, and some of the issues raised by the discussion we had just yesterday with Fareed, the screenwriter and director of the two films. Themes of voyeurism, concealment, and revelation run through both films where peeping toms more than once catch glimpses of nude female bodies, an image concealed to the extreme in much of Islamic thought and practice. Fareed explained that he sees this voyeurism as analogous to the role of the filmmaker and the artist, to steal glimpses into the lives of others (even if they are created by the writer) to develop the narrative and endow the characters with a sort of truth or honesty. He stressed also the importance of avoiding self-censorship and that the artist should stay honest to his characters and to his audience; he or she should write from life, not simply quote from previous films. It seems hard to find a way for both to exist, honesty and voyeurism as one implies openness and the other, secrecy. Where do the anthropologist and ethnographer work her way into this equation, and how does she relate to Fareed’s image of the artist? Where is the poet? Like me and me peers, anthropologists have one foot in and one foot out so to speak, they occupy a space between voyeur and local. In getting accustomed to living with our families and finding ways to move in the spaces we negotiate every day (public buses, trains, the street and side walk, and even our “own” bedrooms that are by no means private by American standards) we are constantly recreating our relation to Tunisia as tourists, anthropologists, voyeurs, locals, peeping toms and family.

This week

This week has been an a-typical one, but then again, the typical has yet to be established here thanks to excursions, and day visits to Tunis to the CEMAT office.

Mou'led Mabrouk! (Happy holidays!) Monday was the Prophet's birthday (the Mou'led) so we had school off to spend with our families. There wasn't all that much going on in La Marsa (or in Tunis, I heard later), but the popular things to do are make music (as I heard around my neighborhood), visit with extended family, and eat a particular sweet dessert called Assida Zagougou which comes in several variations and is a type of pudding with a creamy topping and ground-up nuts as a garnish. Making assida in my family was quite an ordeal and took over 10 hours. My mom was exhausted from sitting next to the stove (gas) and stirring it every ten minutes or so. In the afternoon my mother burned two types of loose incense in an ornate goblet-shaped incense holder with a coal. She put it on the marble steps and opened the door and the whole house still smells beautiful. My brother, sister in law and neice came over and then later we all went to visit my grandmother, great aunt, and two other aunts. I got to try 5 or 6 different types of assida that each of the guests had brought to share. This is a mou'led tradition for sure. The stuff is so sweet, a real treat.

I am not sure if there has been a wedding or just continued mu'led celebration down the street, but there has been music (zurna, darbuka, and singing, and wonderful ululations) down the street in the evenings until midnight every night. Awesome.

On friday I am going to a Tunisian hip hop / rap concert. The artist is called Balti and has gotten mixed reviews from the people I've asked around here. One of the SIT students is thinking about studying Tunisian hip hop for her individual project so this is a must.

The arabic today was a lot; six hours again. Tonight I rest and practice my ma'luf for my lesson on Saturday. The stuff is super hard. It's so hard to get my hands to produce the sounds that my brain wants. my ear just says WRONG no matter how much I try to make b 1/3rds flats and b 2/3rds flat. More on Ma'luf once I really get started on it.















Me and my nefew, Skander. My mom told me the other day that he wants to marry me when he grows up.















He likes to kiss and hug me a lot which is great. I need more hugging in my life here. I miss greeting people by hugging like we do without knowing it at Oberlin or even at home.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Quick check-in

I have returned from a week-long excursion to the south and the Sahara and am getting back into the swing of things with my family and the students and professors at SIT. I've been out of contact with the world beyond our bus, our camels, and our four-wheel drive cars for a a good while so it's hard to know what to say just now. I think I'll type up an entry at home and post tomorrow.

I am doing quite well besides an allergic reaction to some henna (called harkus here) on my right hand and some gut issues that I think has been resolved thanks to the miracle drug - Cipro. Enough on that...

Also, I've just arranged this afternoon to start violin lessons (in Ma'luf) this Saturday at the music conservatory in Sidi Bou Said right down the street from the SIT office and a 20 minute bus ride from my house in La Marsa.

More on music and my reflections from my southern excursion soon!